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Heat oven to 425 degrees. Pour 1 Tbs melted butter into a 9-inch round cake pan (non-stick if you have it - if not, line the bottom with parchment paper before adding butter); brush to coat pan
Make filling Combine sugars, spices and salt. Add 1 Tbs melted butter and stir with fingers till it looks like wet sand. set aside
Make dough Whisk flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt in large bowl. whisk buttermilk and 2 Tbs melted butter in measuring cup or small bowl. Add liquid to dry ingredients and stir until liquid is absorbed (dough will look very shaggy). Transfer dough to lightly floured work surface and knead until just smooth and no longer shaggy.
Pat dough with hands into 12 x 9- inch rectangle. Brush dough with 2 Tbs melted butter. Sprinkle evenly with filling, leaving 1/2 inch boarder of plain dough around edges. Press filling firmly into dough.
Using bench scraper, loosed dough from work surface. Starting at a long side, roll dough, pressing lightly, to form a tight log. Pinch seam to seal.
Roll log seam side down and cut evenly into eight pieces. With hand, slightly flatten each piece of dough to seal open edges and keep filling in place.
Place one roll in center of pan, then place remaining seven rolls around perimeter of pan. They should touch, but not be crammed. Drizzle with remaining Tbs of melted butter.
Bake until edges are golden brown, 23 to 25 minutes. Loosen with a spatula. without separating, slide buns out of pan onto greased cooling rack. Cool about 5 minutes before icing.
Making icing and finish Set rack of rolls over foil-lined baking sheet (for easier clean-up). whisk cream cheese and 1 Tbs of buttermilk in large bowl until thick and smooth. sift powdered sugar over. whisk until smooth glaze forms - add up to 1 additional Tbs of buttermilk if too thick. spoon glaze evenly over the buns. Best when warm (of course) but can be made the night before and reheated very briefly in microwave.
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